These comforting dishes offer sustenance without all the fuss
ometimes there’s nothing like a comforting meal in a pot to warm diners through on those chilly winter evenings. These elevated all-in-one dishes, with hearty wine pairings by Marlene Rossman, showcase the continued success of sleeves-up dining.
Laurent Tourondel, executive chef, BLT Restaurant Group, adapted from Fresh from the Market (Wiley, 2010)
Beef Shank Stew with Celery root, turnipS, rutaBaga, parSnipS, & fingerling potatoeS
Yield: 6 servings 8 c. dry red wine, preferably Cabernet Sauvignon 2 c. ruby port 2 small onions, thinly sliced 1 garlic head, halved crosswise 3 fresh thyme sprigs 1 bay leaf 1 1/2 t. salt 1/2 t. whole black peppercorns 2 beef shanks, top and bottoms trimmed, about 8 pounds each Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 c. vegetable oil 4 T. unsalted butter 2 T. all-purpose flour 2 T. tomato paste 8 c. veal stock 1 bouquet garni (1 dark green leek leaf, 4 fresh sage leaves, 4 fresh thyme sprigs, 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, 2 bay leaves) 1 small celery root, peeled and cut into 6 wedges 2 medium turnips, peeled and cut into 12 wedges 1 rutabaga, peeled and cut into 12 wedges 2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces 6 fingerling potatoes, halved on the bias 3 T. unsalted butter 1 T. garlic, finely chopped 1 T. salt-packed capers, rinsed and drained 1 T. fresh tarragon, chopped Method (1) Combine the wine, port, onions, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and peppercorns in a large nonreactive container. Add the beef shanks, cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. (2) Preheat the oven to 350˚F Re. move the beef shanks from the marinade, and reserve both the solids and liquid from the marinade separately. Blot any excess moisture from the shanks, and season with salt and pepper. (3) Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat. Once the oil is nearly smoking, sear the beef shanks evenly on all sides, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer the beef shanks to a plate. Drain the excess fat from the Dutch oven. (4) Add the butter and the reserved solids from the marinade and cook until lightly caramelized, about 3 minutes. Add the flour and tomato paste, and cook until the paste has browned, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved liquid from the marinade, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add
Chef Tourondel says, “The shanks can be braised a day or two in advance and the flavors will develop even more during that time. Bring the stew up to simmer and add the cut vegetables an hour before you want to serve.” the veal stock and bouquet garni, and bring back to a boil. Place the shanks in the simmering liquid. Cover the Dutch oven loosely with foil and place it in the oven. Braise until the beef is very tender, about 31/2 hours. Add the celery root, turnips, rutabaga, parsnips, and potatoes. Cook until the vegetables are tender and easily pierced with a fork, about 45 minutes. Gently remove the beef shanks and vegetables from the Dutch oven. By this point the meat will be just falling off the bone. (5) Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean large saucepan. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Skim the fat from the surface and simmer until the sauce is thick, rich, and glossy, about 15 minutes. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Return the meat and vegetables to the sauce, basting with the sauce to reheat. (6) In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the butter and garlic, swirling the pan until the garlic is golden and the butter is just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the capers and cook 2 minutes, making sure the butter does not burn. (7) Remove from the heat and stir in the tarragon. (8) To serve, transfer the stew to a large serving bowl, and drizzle the caper-tarragon brown butter over the stew. Serve immediately. Wine pairing: 6 North Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, California—Keeping with the Cabernet theme in the prep, this classic Cab is loaded with ripe blackberry, plum and mocha flavors, and has the stuffing to stand up to this satisfying stew.
January 2011 | 17