T.J. Lengnick, chef de cuisine, Shinsei Restaurant, Dallas, www.shinseirestaurant.com; wine pairing by Marlene Rossman Yield: 8 servings 4 c. sake 4 c. mirin 1 g. orange juice 1 c. low-sodium soy sauce 2 c. veal stock 4 bunches green onion roots, sliced 1 4” ginger knob, peeled and sliced 5 Thai chiles, minced 1 c. palm sugar 2 T. sambal 1 c. garlic, chopped 2 oranges, cut in half and charred on grill 1 lemon grass stalk, sliced 2 onions, skinned and quartered 5 lbs. boneless country-style beef ribs Salt and black pepper, as needed Chinese ﬁve-spice powder, as needed Method (1) In sauce pot, reduce sake and mirin by half. Add orange juice; bring to boil. Add soy sauce; return to boil. Add veal stock, green onion, ginger, chiles, sugar, sambal, garlic, oranges, lemon grass and onions; reduce heat, and simmer. (2) Season beef with salt, pepper and Chinese ﬁve-spice powder. Sear beef in heavy cast-iron skillet. Place in deep pan; cover with reduced liquids. (3) Wrap pan in plastic wrap and aluminum foil. Cook at 225°F for 7 hours. Remove from oven; allow to cool before removing beef. Place meat on sheet pan with wire rack (to allow beef to drain before portioning). (4) Strain liquid into in large sauce pot; reduce by half or to preferred consistency. (5) To reheat, gently simmer beef portions in liquid. Serve when hot, glazing each piece with leftover sauce. Pictured with stir-fry noodles. Wine pairing: Berry-ﬁlled Summers Zinfandel “Villa Adriana” 2006 (California), infused with candied ginger and cinnamon, is a grand match for spicy-sweet ribs.
CITRUS-BRAISED COUNTRY-STYLE BEEF RIBS
from a restaurant point of view, it has a nice yield, and it is easy to work with.” The citrus-braised country-style beef ribs at Shinsei (recipe, above) are served with stir-fry noodles and menued at $32. The customer response has been overwhelming, according to Rathbun. “Our customers have demanded that we make the short ribs one of our signature dishes. Since the day we added it as a special, it has been one of our most popular and is now on the everyday menu.” Boneless country-style beef ribs are also perfect for shredding into salads, sauces and barbecue applications. Rathbun adds, “We have also had great success in using this style of rib for our Chinese-style barbecue steamed buns with Asian-style slaw. It has been one of our best sellers for catering and private parties.” Rathbun says that menuing newer cuts, like country-style beef ribs, gives customers the best flavor and value. “I would recommend these newer cuts of meat because they are flavorful, and we are able to offer them to our guests at a reasonable price—which everyone appreciates.” Another new cut is Denver steak, or beef chuck under-blade centercut steak. This steak is cut from any portion of the serratus ventralis (chuck) muscle by slicing across the grain, making it ideal for grilling. At Ehrhardt’s Waterfront Resort (www. ehrhardts.com) in Wallenpaupack, Pa., executive chef Michael MacGeorge serves a grilled 8-ounce Denver steak with a house-made herb butter for $17.95 (recipe, opposite). MacGeorge also menus a Denver steak taco. (For the online exclusive
recipe for Denver “Wellington” puff pastry taco with Southwest mushroom rub, visit Chef ’s April digital edition at www.chefmagazine.com.)
Beef loin cuts
Sirloin cuts have traditionally been challenging for foodservice because the cap muscle runs opposite of the top sirloin muscle, making it difﬁcult to maintain consistent quality when butchering. Sirloin cap steak, on the other hand, is cut after the cap muscle is removed from the top sirloin. “The inconsistency of the precut sirloins was driving us crazy,” says Michael Stevens, chef-owner of Tanner Jacks (www.tannerjacks.com) in Arroyo Grande, Calif. “And then [sirloin cap steak] came along.” Stevens’ Sysco representative turned him on to sirloin cap, which is similar in flavor and tenderness to a top sirloin steak, but with more tenderness. Stevens says he initially looked into purchasing whole sirloin caps and portioning them in-house, but the large amount of fat on the cap did not make it cost-effective. “Precut is a little more pricey; it’s actually costing us quite a bit more than a sirloin steak, but again, it’s so much [value]. It’s $21.99 on our menu, and we have no complaints of price at all. Every customer who puts it in their mouth is ecstatic. It tastes like filet mignon, but with sirloin flavor.” Also called coulette, sirloin cap steak is a great cut of beef for grilling or dry roasting, as well as braising. Stevens grills his 10-ounce Certified Angus Beef sirloin cap steaks over oak wood to enhance the naturally rich flavor.
Stevens says, “If there’s a chance for a chef to even try [sirloin cap steak], it’s wise. I would never go back to another sirloin. I’ve done prime sirloins. I’ve done Kobe sirloins. And this surpasses it by 10.” Another loin cut is baseball cut sirloin, or ﬁlet of sirloin, fabricated from a third of the center-cut top sirloin muscle (separated from the main muscle). Because of the way it is cut, baseball cut sirloin does not have the seam traditionally found in a center-cut sirloin. While a baseball cut is a little less tender than a tenderloin, it delivers a fuller, beefy ﬂavor. Executive chef Heath Hughes says this steak cut is a top seller at Buckhorn Steak & Roadhouse (www.buckhorn steakhouse.com) in Winters, Calif.
“A lot of people prefer [a baseball cut sirloin] over a filet because it has more flavor,” says Hughes. “Using our Certified Angus Beef, it has more marbling—and it has more marbling than a filet would have.” Hughes sears baseball cut steak in the broiler and then finishes it in the oven before topping with port wine cherry sauce. All of Buckhorn’s sirloins are wet-aged in-house for 60 days, ensuring the highest quality flavor and tenderness of the meat— as well as customer satisfaction. “The baseball cut is $28.99, and it’s a 12-ounce steak. … [Guests] really see the value in it. They don’t have to spend $40 dollars to get a beefytasting steak.”
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April 2009 | 13
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