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Big Reds

Red wines for hot-weather dining

by Marlene Rossman

It is officially summer, and by now you have switched out your hearty braises and stews for grilled meats and vegetables and other light summer dishes. Hopefully, you've also stocked your wine cellar with a handful of summer-friendly reds.

Red wine, you ask? In this weather? Of course! Not a light, elegant glass of French Burgundy or an expensive California "cult" Cabernet Sauvignon, but a hearty red wine that can stand up to burgers, brats and brisket.

For grilled foods and other warm-weather fare, reds like Zinfandel and Syrah should be at the top of your list.

Red wines range from light- to full-bodied, and each has its own distinctive taste based on the type of grape and the place it's grown. And while French (and Italian, Spanish, Argentine, Aussie …) wines are marvelous, nothing goes with barbecue better than the bounty of red wine that the U.S. has to offer.

Of course, you could serve an ice-cold beer, iced tea or soda, but to me, a sizzling plate of ribs just cries out for a glass of "big red." Rich cuts of meats pair beautifully with red wine. Acids and tannins balance the fat in meat. So a red wine that may seem harsh when tasted on its own will become velvety when the tannins in the wine bond with the fats in the dish.

Plain grilled chicken is very different from grilled chicken smothered in a jalapeño jerk rub. So, instead of pairing the wine with the protein, pair the wine with the marinade, sauce, seasoning or dominant flavor of the dish. If you are serving spicy Buffalo wings, you need a big red wine with a little sweetness, like Zinfandel, to balance the spice. Similarly, smoked turkey or ribs meld beautifully with the smoky, hearty flavors of Syrah.

The fighting red varietals

Let's start with Zinfandel, which is known as America's sweetheart grape because it is almost exclusively produced in the U.S. Its origins have been traced to Croatia as Crljenak Kastelanski (don't ask!), and it came to the U.S. from Italy with the immigrants who started the American wine industry. Zinfandel, a big, hearty red with aromas and flavors of chocolate-covered black cherries and blackberry jam, is a real crowd pleaser. Zinfandel is a natural with spicy-sweet foods like barbecued ribs in raspberry-chipotle sauce.

Some of the most food-friendly Zinfandels are made by Ridge (www.ridgewine. com). If you think Zinfandel can't be elegant, try any one of the Ridge Zinfandels. Another food-friendly Zinfandel is Neyers (www.neyersvineyards.com), made by Ehren Jordan who also makes the "cult" Turley Zinfandels (www.turleywinecellars.com).

The next red grape on our wine list is Syrah (or Shiraz, as they call it in Australia). Syrah, the signature grape of France's Rhône region, is a big red with flavors of berries, plums, herbs, black pepper, smoke and a little bit of leather. California makes great Syrah, and Washington state is producing Syrah that can even out-Syrah Aussie Shiraz. Look for delicious Washington Syrah offerings from Barnard Griffin (www.barnardgriffin.com), Owen Roe (www.owenroe.com) and Waterbrook (www.waterbrook.com). Syrah is a great match with Indian fare or Moroccan-style lamb kebabs.

How about Petite Sirah? First, it's not "petite" and second, it's not Syrah. Most "Pets" (the term used by the wine industry) are tannic beasts, which means that they really need rich, fatty meat to pair with. Petite Sirah is almost opaque black in the glass. It has typically been used as a blending wine, but it's gaining in popularity on its own. With flavors of black plums, blackberries, vanilla and pepper, this "Petite" monster needs something heavy like grilled Italian sausage with peppers to tame it. Try one of Rosenblum's Petite Sirahs (www.rosenblumcellars.com).

And what about Merlot? No matter that Merlot has fallen out of fashion for some, it's a marvelous go-to red wine that can pair beautifully with grilled fare. Think of Merlot as a softer, easier-drinking version of Cabernet Sauvignon, with plum, mocha and vanilla flavors. For inexpensive Merlot, you can't beat the lineup from Washington state's Columbia Crest (www.columbia-crest.com). A little pricier, but outstanding, are California's Beringer (www.beringer.com) and Mondavi (www.robertmondaviwinery.com) Merlots. Serve with grilled rosemary-scented lamb chops.

Let's not forget about Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir originated in France's Burgundy region and is considered by many as the world's most elegant grape. Because it's a red wine, but fairly light-bodied, Pinot Noir is the red wine for white wine drinkers. In fact, it goes with practically everything-duck, chicken, veal, even a big, grilled pork chop. Good Pinot Noir has aromas and flavors of cherries, cinnamon and clove, dried roses and sweet earth. And who says that red wine doesn't go with fish? Serve Pinot with a tuna, salmon or swordfish steak and watch the "a-ha" reaction. Pinot Noir served with a grilled portobello mushroom is another natural pairing because of the earthiness in the wine.

Both California and Oregon are making world-class Pinot Noir. Outstanding, reasonably priced choices come from California's fruit-forward Morgan (www.morganwinery.com) and Cuvaison (www.cuvaison.com), and Oregon's cooler-climate Argyle (www.argylewinery.com) and Erath Pinot Noirs (www.erath.com).

For many diners, the ultimate wine is "King" Cabernet. Along with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon is the grape in many of the elegant wines of Bordeaux. But, to accompany grilled beef, you can't beat the ripe, fruit-forward Cabs of California. These Cabs are deep and full of rich flavors like black cherry, cedar, cocoa and coffee. While good Cabernet Sauvignon is never cheap, you can find some excellent, moderately priced, medium-weight Cali Cabs such as Bennett Lane, Hall, Honig, Sebastiani and Steltzner (www.bennettlane.com; www.hallwines.com; www.honigwine.com; www.sebastiani.com; www.steltzner.com). Pair one of these with a Wagyu steak, and hear your alfresco diners cheer.

Marlene Rossman is president of Manhattan Wine Seminars LLC, a wine education and consulting firm. She is the creator of the University of California at Irvine Corporate Wine Studies program. Marlene was the sommelier/chef educator at Laguna Culinary Arts, Laguna Beach, Calif. She writes about wine for trade and professional publications.

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